How To Put Magnets In DnD Minis: The Complete Tabletop Magnetization Guide

Discover how to put magnets in dnd minis to build highly customizable, modular characters and safe magnetic transport solutions. This technical guide outlines the precise steps to drill, polarize, and secure N52 neodymium magnets into plastic, resin, and metal miniatures. Master these essential hobby skills to swap weapons, spell effects, and bases seamlessly without risking damage to your painted figures.

Essential Tools and Pre-Magnetization Planning

Before modifying your Dungeons & Dragons miniatures, you must gather the specialized hobby gear necessary to execute clean, flush drill holes without destroying delicate limbs or thin bases. Magnetizing tabletop miniatures is a precision craft that requires stabilizing the model, calculating structural depth, and managing microscopic magnetic poles.

Failing to plan your tools and sizing beforehand often results in offset joints, misaligned weapon swaps, or drill bits chewing entirely through a miniature’s hand.

Mandatory Gear, Materials, and Benchmark Standards

To ensure your workspace is prepared for safe and accurate modifications, assemble the following materials:

• Neodymium Disc Magnets (Grade N52): Avoid weaker N35 grades. Standardize on 2mm x 1mm magnets for standard miniature limbs, hands, and weapons, and 6mm x 2mm or 8mm x 2mm magnets for miniature bases.
• Hand-Held Pin Vice (Manual Hand Drill): Never use a high-speed motorized power drill or rotary tool, as they generate friction heat that melts miniature polystyrene plastic or cracks delicate polyurethane resin.
• Micro Drill Bits: Acquire a high-speed steel (HSS) drill bit set matching your exact magnet diameters, specifically 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 3.0mm, and 6.0mm bits.
• High-Viscosity Cyanoacrylate Glue (CA Glue/Super Glue): Standard gel super glue works best because it fills minor physical gaps around the magnet. Ultra-thin liquid glues can easily run, flooding delicate joints or sealing the magnet's exterior face.
• Cyanoacrylate Activator (Zip Kicker): An optional chemical spray that instantly cures CA glue, preventing magnets from shifting during installation.
• Hobby Knife (X-Acto Knife): Used to score pilot holes to prevent the drill bit from walking across the surface of the plastic.
• The Polarity Key (Reference Tool): A spare piece of plastic hobby sprue or a wooden popsicle stick with a control magnet permanently glued to one end. This allows you to check polarity before gluing.
• Personal Protective Equipment (PPE): A standard N95 or N100 dust mask and protective eyewear. Resin dust is a known sensitizer and toxic when inhaled.

Project Benchmarks

• Estimated Budget: $15 to $30 USD depending on your current tool collection.
• Time Commitment: Approximately 5 to 10 minutes per joint or base once you establish a streamlined assembly line.
• Skill Requirement: Intermediate hobby experience (steady hand, basic tool safety).

Step-by-Step Guide to Magnetizing DnD Miniature Bases and Limbs

Successfully putting magnets in DnD minis requires a methodical, multi-step approach to preserve the structural integrity of your models and guarantee flawless magnetic attraction.

Step 1: Construct and Verify Your Polarity Key

Polarity is the single most critical factor when learning how to put magnets in dnd minis. If you glue a magnet into a miniature's shoulder with the positive pole facing outward, and glue the matching arm with the positive pole facing inward, the arm will physically repel the torso.

1. Cut a 3-inch length of hard plastic runner (sprue) from a miniature kit or use a thick wooden craft stick.
2. Glue a single 2mm x 1mm neodymium magnet flat to the end of this stick.
3. Use a permanent marker to color the exposed face of this magnet bright red. This is your master "Torso and Base Key."
4. Glue another magnet to the opposite end of the stick, ensuring it is attracted to the first magnet. Color the exposed face of this second magnet bright blue. This is your master "Arm and Weapon Key."
5. Always test-fit every single loose magnet against this key before applying glue to the miniature.

Pro-Tip: Standardize your entire collection. Always ensure that the torso cavities receive magnets with the negative pole facing outward, and all swap-out limbs receive magnets with the positive pole facing outward. This allows weapons from different miniature kits to be completely interchangeable across your entire party.

Step 2: Establish a Precise Pilot Hole

Drill bits naturally slide across smooth plastic surfaces, which can ruin the alignment of a joint. You must create a guide indentation to hold the drill bit in place.

1. Locate the exact center of the joint or base where you want to place the magnet.
2. Place the tip of your hobby knife on this center point.
3. Gently press down and rotate the blade 360 degrees to carve out a small, conical pilot indentation.
4. For metal miniatures, use a steel automatic center punch to create a starter dimple without dulling your hobby knife.

Step 3: Drill the Magnet Cavity

Using your pin vice, you will now drill a clean cavity to house the magnet.

1. Insert the drill bit that matches the exact diameter of your chosen magnet (e.g., a 2mm bit for a 2mm magnet) into the pin vice.
2. Place the tip of the drill bit directly into the pilot hole you created in Step 2.
3. Hold the miniature securely with your non-dominant hand, keeping your fingers away from the direct path of the drill.
4. Rotate the pin vice clockwise with light, even downward pressure. Do not push too hard, as this can crack thin resin or cause the bit to slip.
5. Periodically pull the drill bit out of the hole to clear away shaved plastic, resin, or metal debris.
6. Check the depth of the hole frequently by placing an unglued magnet into the cavity using a hobby knife blade. The magnet must sit completely flush or slightly sub-flush with the surrounding plastic surface.

Warning: Always wear your dust mask during this step. Resin micro-shavings and dust created by drilling are toxic to your lungs and do not break down inside the body over time. Clean your workstation with a wet paper towel afterward to collect all loose dust.

Step 4: Glue and Seat the Magnet

Once the hole is drilled to the correct depth, you can secure the magnet permanently.

1. Clean all dust and plastic shavings out of the drilled hole using a dry toothbrush or compressed air.
2. Check your Polarity Key. Place a magnet onto the correct end of the key so it sticks by magnetic force alone, leaving the gluing face exposed.
3. Apply a tiny dot of high-viscosity cyanoacrylate glue to the bottom of the drilled cavity. Do not overfill the hole; a pinhead-sized drop is sufficient.
4. Press the exposed face of the magnet (still attached to your Polarity Key) firmly into the drilled cavity. Ensure the magnet is level and flush.
5. Hold the key steady for 10 seconds, then slide the Polarity Key sideways (shear motion) to break the magnetic bond, leaving the magnet perfectly seated in the cavity. Do not pull the key straight up, or you will pull the wet magnet out of the hole.
6. Spray a tiny amount of CA activator onto the joint to cure the glue instantly, or let it sit undisturbed for 10 minutes.

Step 5: Magnetizing Bases for Magnetic Transport

Magnetizing the underside of your DnD miniature bases allows you to carry them securely inside metal cases, preventing paint chips and broken limbs during transport.

1. Flip the miniature upside down. Most DnD bases have a recessed underside cavity approximately 1.5mm to 2mm deep.
2. Select a 6mm x 2mm N52 neodymium magnet.
3. If the base cavity is too deep, the magnet will not make contact with your metal carry case. Mix a small pea-sized ball of two-part epoxy putty (such as Green Stuff or Milliput) and press it into the underside of the base.
4. Press the 6mm magnet into the epoxy putty until the magnet is perfectly level with the bottom rim of the base.
5. Apply a drop of CA glue over the putty-magnet interface to lock it in place. Let the putty and glue cure completely before placing the miniature on a metal surface.

Tabletop Miniature Magnet Selection and Drill Bit Specifications

Selecting the correct magnet size is critical to maintaining the balance and structural integrity of your miniatures. The table below outlines the industry standards for various sizes and parts of tabletop miniatures.

Common Magnetization Failures and Field Fixes

Even experienced hobbyists occasionally run into issues when putting magnets in miniatures. Below are the most common failures, along with their root causes and actionable solutions.

Scenario 1: Reversed Polarity on a Glued Joint

• Root Cause: Failing to verify the magnet orientation against a master Polarity Key before inserting it into the glued socket.
• Actionable Fix: Apply a small drop of nitromethane-based super glue de-bonder or high-strength acetone directly to the magnet joint using a toothpick. Let it sit for 2 to 3 minutes to dissolve the cyanoacrylate bond. Take a sewing needle or a fine-point hobby knife, slide it under the edge of the magnet, and pry it out. Clean the cavity with a drill bit and glue the magnet back in with the correct polarity.

Scenario 2: The Drill Bit Pierced Through the Side of a Miniature's Limb

• Root Cause: Drilling too quickly, applying excessive pressure, or failing to align the drill bit perfectly parallel to the center axis of the limb.
• Actionable Fix: Do not panic or try to pull the magnet out if it has already been glued. Let the glue dry completely. Trim away any excess plastic or protruding magnet corners using flush cutters. Mix a tiny amount of two-part epoxy putty (Green Stuff), press it over the blowout hole, and sculpt it to match the surrounding armor or organic texture. Once cured, prime and paint over the repaired area.

Scenario 3: The Magnet Sits Too Deep, Creating a Weak Magnetic Connection

• Root Cause: Drilling the hole too deep, leaving an air gap between the two magnets when the miniature parts are assembled.
• Actionable Fix: Cut a tiny disk of thin plastic card (styrene sheets) or roll a small ball of epoxy putty and drop it into the over-drilled hole. Press the magnet on top of this spacer material so it is pushed back up to sit perfectly flush with the rim of the cavity. Apply a drop of CA glue to lock this new stack in place.

Scenario 4: The Magnet Pulls Out of the Socket When Swapping Weapons

• Root Cause: Poor surface adhesion due to smooth drill holes, greasy resin mold release agents, or inadequate glue curing time.
• Actionable Fix: Pull the magnet out and clean the dried glue from both the cavity and the magnet using your hobby knife. Before re-gluing, use the tip of your knife to score a cross-hatch pattern inside the plastic hole and on the back of the magnet to create micro-grooves for the glue to grip. Clean the parts with isopropyl alcohol, re-glue, and wait a full 24 hours before testing the joint.

Frequently Asked Questions

What grade of neodymium magnet is best for DnD minis?

N52 grade neodymium magnets are the best choice for tabletop miniatures. They offer the highest magnetic pull force relative to their volume, ensuring that small 2mm or 1.5mm magnets can easily support heavy plastic and resin weapons without slipping during gameplay.

Can I use hot glue to put magnets in miniatures?

No, hot glue is not recommended for putting magnets in miniatures. It is too thick to allow flush alignment, lacks the sheer strength required to resist strong magnetic pulls, and the heat from the glue gun can warp thin plastic or resin parts. Stick to high-quality cyanoacrylate (super glue) or two-part epoxies.

How do I magnetize metal (pewter) DnD miniatures?

You can magnetize pewter miniatures using the exact same steps as plastic, but you must use specialized cobalt or high-speed steel (HSS) drill bits. Work slowly, apply steady pressure, and lubricate the drill tip with a drop of 3-in-1 oil to prevent friction heat from binding the bit to the metal.

Will magnetizing my miniatures damage their paint jobs?

If you magnetize your miniatures before priming and painting them, your paint job will remain perfectly safe. If you are magnetizing a pre-painted miniature, wrap the painted areas in low-tack painter's tape to protect them from any accidental slips of the drill or glue runs.

Elevate Your Tabletop Campaigns with Modular Customization

Now that you know how to safely drill, polarize, and install neodymium magnets, you can transform your static miniatures into fully customizable heroes. Gather your tools, calibrate your Polarity Key, and begin constructing a modular, magnetic collection that will turn heads at your next game session.