How To Install Cedar Shake Siding Shingles: A Professional Master Guide

Installing cedar shake siding shingles requires meticulous moisture barrier management, exact course layout math, and proper stainless steel fastener placement to ensure a weather-tight, aesthetically striking exterior finish lasting decades. This authoritative guide details the professional-grade workflow, dimensional tolerances, and field-tested techniques necessary to achieve a flawless architectural installation.

Essential Jobsite Preparation & Material Specifications

Achieving an expert-grade cedar shake siding installation demands strict adherence to prep work, precise tool selection, and comprehensive material staging. Cedar shakes and shingles are natural, reactive wood products that respond dynamically to ambient humidity and temperature shifts; therefore, material acclimatization and substrate preparation are non-negotiable prerequisites.

• Essential Tools and Materials: Western Red Cedar or Alaskan Yellow Cedar shakes/shingles (Grade A Blue Label recommended), house wrap or breathable weather-resistive barrier (WRB), corrugated rainscreen mat or furring strips, stainless steel ring-shank nails (Type 304 or 316), chalk line, sliding T-bevel, roofing hatchet, siding gauge tool, utility knife with hook blades, and a circular saw with a fine-tooth carbide blade.
• Prerequisite Knowledge & Standards: Familiarity with local building codes, proper flashing integration around all penetrations, and maintaining the minimum 6-inch clearance between finished grade and the bottom siding course.
• Benchmarks & Scope: Average installation speeds range from 100 to 150 square feet per person per day. Budget for a 10% to 15% material waste factor to account for cuts, knots, and off-grade pieces.

Step-by-Step Cedar Shake Installation Workflow

Step 1: Installing the Weather-Resistive Barrier and Rainscreen

1. Apply a high-performance breathable weather-resistive barrier (WRB) horizontally across the exterior sheathing, starting from the bottom up. Ensure each upper course laps over the lower course by a minimum of 6 inches, and vertical seams overlap by at least 12 inches.
2. Install self-adhering flashing tape around all window and door openings, integrating them seamlessly with the WRB to manage incidental moisture intrusion.
3. Fasten a vertical corrugated rainscreen mat or drainage strips directly over the WRB to create an unimpeded ventilation cavity behind the cedar shakes, preventing moisture entrapment and premature wood decay.

Warning: Never install cedar shakes directly against untreated plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) without a proper drainage gap or breathable WRB, as trapped moisture will rapidly rot the cedar from the backside.

Step 2: Establishing the Starter Course and Chalk Lines

1. Measure up from your lowest reference point (accounting for the 6-inch ground clearance) and snap a precise horizontal chalk line for the base starter course.
2. Install a heavy-duty double-layer starter course at the bottom of the wall. The first layer should overhang the concrete foundation or sill plate by approximately 3/4 inch to ensure proper water shedding away from the building envelope.
3. Stagger the joints of the double starter course so that vertical gaps in the top layer do not align with gaps in the bottom layer. Use building paper or a flashing strip tucked behind the starter course to catch any water channeling downward.

Step 3: Laying Out Exposure and Snap Lines

1. Determine your desired exposure length based on the length of your shakes and the architectural pitch of the wall (standard exposure is 5.5 inches for 16-inch shingles, 7.5 inches for 24-inch shakes).
2. Calculate the total wall height and divide by your exposure to ensure your courses evenly divide the space without resulting in an unacceptably narrow sliver course at the top roofline or soffit.
3. Snap parallel horizontal chalk lines up the wall every two to three courses to serve as visual leveling guides for the butts of the incoming shingles.

Step 4: Hanging and Fastening the Cedar Shakes

1. Sort your shakes by width, mixing narrow and wide pieces to create a visually balanced, natural exterior appearance across the elevation.
2. Leave a precise 1/4-inch expansion gap between adjacent shakes to accommodate natural wood swelling during wet weather cycles.
3. Fasten each shake with two corrosion-resistant stainless steel ring-shank nails. Drive nails approximately 3/4 inch in from each edge and about 1 inch above the exposure line of the succeeding course.
4. Set nail heads flush with the surface of the wood; driving them too deeply will crush the wood fibers and split the shake, while leaving them raised prevents proper seating of the next course.

Pro-Tip: Use a dedicated siding gauge hooked onto the bottom edge of the previous course to rapidly and accurately position each new shake without constantly relying on chalk lines.

Technical Specifications and Material Comparison

Common Site Failures and Field Fixes

• Root Cause: Using electro-galvanized or standard steel nails instead of hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners.
  
  
  • Actionable Fix: Tannic acid in natural cedar reacts corrosively with standard steel, causing ugly black streaks. Pull affected fasteners and replace them immediately with Type 304 or 316 stainless steel ring-shank nails.
• Root Cause: Butt joints lining up vertically across adjacent or closely spaced courses.
  
  
  • Actionable Fix: Maintain a strict rule requiring a minimum 1.5-inch lateral offset between joints in any two consecutive courses, and ensure joints never align vertically within three courses of one another.
• Root Cause: Shakes buckling, cupping, or splitting vertically after a single seasonal cycle.
  
  
  • Actionable Fix: Shakes were installed too tightly without the mandatory 1/4-inch expansion gap. Carefully remove damaged shakes with a shingle ripper tool and reinstall new pieces with proper spacing.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do cedar shake shingles need to be treated or stained before installation?

Yes, applying a factory-quality penetrating oil finish or water-repellent preservative to all four sides of the shakes prior to installation significantly extends their functional lifespan. Back-priming prevents moisture absorption from the building interior or cavity condensation, minimizing cupping and warping.

Can cedar shakes be installed directly over existing vinyl or aluminum siding?

While technically possible, installing cedar shakes over old siding is strongly discouraged. Stripping down to the bare exterior sheathing allows you to inspect for structural rot, install a modern weather-resistive barrier, and integrate proper flashing around all architectural penetrations.

What causes black staining on cedar siding and how can it be removed?

Black staining is typically caused by a reaction between ferrous metal fasteners and wood tannins, or by organic mildew growth in shaded environments. Wash the affected areas with a specialized oxalic acid-based wood cleaner or a mild oxygen bleach solution, avoiding high-pressure washers that can erode soft wood fibers.

How do you handle outside and inside corners when installing cedar shakes?

Outside and inside corners are traditionally constructed using a woven corner technique or by butting shakes tightly against a solid corner board (slight bevel ripped on the corner board edges for a clean joint). Alternatively, pre-formed factory corner units can be utilized to accelerate the installation timeline while maintaining clean lines.

Transform Your Exterior with Professional-Grade Cedar Craftsmanship

Mastering the installation of cedar shake siding shingles elevates any architectural project with timeless texture, organic warmth, and unmatched structural durability. Secure your materials, verify your drainage planes, and begin your installation with confidence today.