How To Get Rid Of Spider Crickets In Basement: Complete Eradication And Prevention Guide

How To Get Rid Of Spider Crickets In Basement: Complete Eradication And Prevention Guide

How Do I Get Rid Of Spiders In My Basement - Openbasement

Eliminate spider crickets (Diestrammena asynamora) from your basement permanently by dropping the relative humidity below 50% using a commercial-grade dehumidifier, sealing foundation cracks with silicone caulk, and placing heavy-duty pest glue boards along the sill plates. For severe infestations, apply a residual microencapsulated insecticide or diatomaceous earth along the basement perimeter to disrupt their breeding cycle and target their food sources.

Substructural Assessment and Eradication Preparation Checklist

Spider crickets, also known as camel crickets or cave crickets (family Rhaphidophoridae), are accidental invaders that seek out subterranean environments because of their biology. Lacking the protective waxy epicuticle layer found on many other insects, these pests lose body moisture rapidly in dry conditions. They migrate to damp, dark basements to survive, feed on organic decay, and reproduce. Before initiating an eradication protocol, you must gather the correct materials and assess your basement's structural vulnerabilities.



Essential Materials & Tools



  • Dehumidifier: Minimum 50-pint capacity compressor-based dehumidifier (or a commercial-grade unit for areas larger than 1,500 square feet).
  • Physical Barriers: 100% silicone masonry caulk, a heavy-duty caulking gun, and expandable polyurethane spray foam (pest-block variant).
  • Mechanical Traps: Minimum of 15 to 20 professional-grade, extra-sticky insect glue boards.
  • Chemical & Mineral Barriers: Food-grade Diatomaceous Earth (DE) with a handheld powder duster, or a synthetic microencapsulated pyrethroid concentrate (such as Bifenthrin or Deltamethrin) with a 1-gallon compression sprayer.
  • Safety Gear: N95 particulate respirator mask, safety goggles, and nitrile gloves.
  • Sanitation Equipment: HEPA-filter canister vacuum and heavy-duty contractor trash bags.


Prerequisite Knowledge & Standards



  • Identify the Target: Confirm you are dealing with Diestrammena asynamora. They are characterized by a humpbacked appearance, light-to-dark brown coloration with dark banding, no wings, and exceptionally long hind legs and antennae.
  • Understand Thigmotropic Behavior: Spider crickets are highly thigmotropic, meaning they navigate by keeping their bodies or long antennae in contact with solid surfaces like walls, baseboards, and corners. Your treatment must target these specific pathways.


Estimated Budget & Duration Benchmarks



  • Time Commitment: 2 to 4 hours of active preparation and application, with continuous ambient drying over a 72-hour period.
  • Total Financial Investment: $150 to $450, depending on the need for a new dehumidification unit.

The Multi-Phase Subterranean Eradication Protocol



Step 1: Deep Environmental Remediation and Food-Source Elimination

Spider crickets are opportunistic scavengers that consume paper, cardboard, textiles, mold, fungi, dead insects, and even other camel crickets. Removing their food supply is critical to forcing them onto your traps and chemical barriers.



  1. Wear an N95 respirator mask and safety goggles before beginning, as disturbing basement clutter can release mold spores and dried insect feces into the air.
  2. Remove all cardboard storage boxes. Transition all stored belongings into heavy-duty plastic storage bins with airtight, rubber-gasket lids.
  3. Vacuum the entire basement floor, paying close attention to wall-floor junctions, sill plates, and corners. Use a HEPA-filter vacuum to capture organic dust, spider webs, mold spores, and cricket eggs.
  4. Scrub any damp concrete walls showing signs of mold or mildew growth with a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water, or an EPA-approved fungicidal cleaner. Let the surfaces dry completely.

Warning: Never sweep basement debris with a broom when dealing with an active pest infestation. Sweeping aerosolizes fecal matter and dried insect fragments, which can enter the HVAC system and trigger severe respiratory irritation or allergic reactions throughout the home.



Step 2: High-Capacity Moisture and Climate Regulation

Because camel crickets lack a moisture-retaining waxy layer on their bodies, lowering the relative humidity (RH) below their survival threshold will kill active nymphs and drive adults to flee or desiccate.



  1. Position your dehumidifier in a central location within the basement. For optimal airflow, ensure it is placed at least 12 inches away from any walls or major obstructions.
  2. Connect a dedicated garden hose to the dehumidifier's gravity drain outlet and route it directly to a floor drain, sump pump basin, or condensate pump. This bypasses the internal bucket, allowing for continuous, uninterrupted operation.
  3. Program the dehumidifier's digital humidistat to maintain a target relative humidity of 45% to 50%.
  4. Monitor the levels using an independent digital hygrometer placed in the farthest, dampest corner of the basement to ensure the humidity drop is uniform across the entire floor plan.

Pro-Tip: If your basement has an exposed dirt crawlspace, cover the soil completely with a 6-mil or 20-mil polyethylene vapor barrier. Seal the seams with heavy-duty construction tape and anchor the barrier 12 inches up the foundation walls to block ground moisture from evaporating into the basement air.



Step 3: Structural Exclusion and Crack Sealing

Exclusion is the process of physically blocking entry points to stop outdoor populations from replacing the crickets you eradicate inside.



  1. Conduct a thorough inspection of the basement interior during daylight hours. Look for visible exterior light passing through the rim joist, sill plate, and utility penetrations.
  2. Load a cartridge of 100% silicone caulk into your caulking gun. Apply a continuous bead along the sill plate (where the wooden frame meets the concrete foundation wall) and around the interior perimeter of all window frames.
  3. Inject expanding polyurethane foam into larger structural gaps, such as the entry points for water lines, gas lines, HVAC lines, and electrical conduits. Ensure the foam is specifically rated as a "pest-block" formulation, which contains bittering agents that prevent chewing.
  4. Go outside and inspect the exterior foundation. Seal any visible hairline cracks in the concrete with masonry hydraulic cement or concrete caulk. Install fine, 20-mesh stainless steel screens over basement window wells and dryer vents.


Step 4: Strategic Deployment of Mechanical Traps

Because spider crickets are highly reactive and jump blindly when startled, high-tack glue boards are highly effective for managing infestations.



  1. Peel the protective release paper off your heavy-duty glue traps. Do not fold them into "tunnels" unless they are being placed in high-dust areas; open, flat traps offer a larger surface area for jumping crickets.
  2. Place the traps flush against basement walls, especially in corners, behind appliances, and near exterior doorways or crawlspace entrances. Because of their thigmotropic nature, crickets rarely travel across the open center of a basement floor.
  3. Space the traps at intervals of 8 to 10 feet along the entire perimeter.
  4. Increase the attractiveness of the traps by placing a tiny pinch of active dry yeast or a small piece of moist bread directly in the center of the glue surface. The fermentation scent mimics the mold and yeast smells that crickets naturally seek out.


Step 5: Applied Chemical or Mineral Barrier Treatments

For severe, entrenched infestations, a chemical or mineral barrier applied to the lower third of the basement walls and the perimeter floor provides long-term control.



  1. Mineral Method (Non-Toxic): Fill a handheld bellows duster with food-grade Diatomaceous Earth (DE). Apply a very fine, barely visible layer of dust along wall-floor junctions, inside sill plate crevices, and in crawlspaces. When crickets crawl through the dust, the microscopic silica particles slice through their epicuticle, causing death by rapid dehydration.
  2. Chemical Method (Residual Spray): Mix a microencapsulated pyrethroid concentrate (such as Bifenthrin at a rate of 0.5 fluid ounces per gallon of water) inside a compression sprayer. Set the nozzle to a coarse, flat-fan pattern.
  3. Apply a continuous 1-foot-wide band of spray along the basement floor where it meets the wall, and spray 1 foot up the basement wall itself. Also apply the spray around the rim joist area and utility entry points.
  4. Keep children and pets out of the treated area until the liquid spray has dried completely, which typically takes 2 to 4 hours depending on ventilation.

How Do I Get Rid Of Spiders In The House at Ava Ewers blog

How Do I Get Rid Of Spiders In The House at Ava Ewers blog

Subterranean Pest Control Agents and Material Specifications

The following table outlines the comparative specifications of the primary barrier and elimination agents used to eradicate spider cricket populations in basement environments.



Treatment Agent Active Ingredient / Formulation Target Application Area Moisture Tolerance Efficacy Lifespan Primary Mode of Action
Diatomaceous Earth (DE) 100% Silicon Dioxide (Amorphous Silica Dust) Dry wall-to-floor junctions, sill plates, and crawlspaces Very Low (clumps and loses efficacy if wet) Indefinite (remains active as long as dry and undisturbed) Mechanical abrasion of the cuticle leading to desiccation
Microencapsulated Liquid Spray 0.06% Bifenthrin (diluted in water) Exterior perimeter, rim joists, and low foundation walls High (micro-capsules protect the active ingredient) 60 to 90 Days (indoors) Disrupts the central nervous system upon physical contact or ingestion
Boric Acid Dust 99% Orthoboric Acid Dark voids, wall cavities, and under heavy appliances Moderate (resists light humidity but dissolves in standing water) Indefinite (remains active as long as kept dry) Acts as a stomach poison upon grooming; also damages outer skin
Professional Glue Boards High-tack polyisobutylene adhesive Corners, baseboards, and structural entry pathways Low to Moderate (dust and moisture degrade tackiness) 30 to 60 Days (or until filled with debris) Mechanical immobilization

Common Basement Remediation Failures and Corrective Adjustments



Scenario 1: Glue traps are filling up rapidly, but the adult cricket population shows no sign of declining after 14 days.



  • Root Cause: The basement envelope has structural entry points that remain unsealed, allowing outdoor crickets to continuously migrate inside. Additionally, an outdoor breeding reservoir (such as heavy mulch, firewood piles, or dense groundcover) may be resting directly against the exterior foundation wall.
  • Actionable Fix: Conduct a night-time light-exclusion test. Turn off all lights inside the basement and have an assistant run a high-lumen flashlight along the exterior sill plate and window wells. Seal any cracks where light leaks through. Externally, pull all mulch, woodpiles, and organic vegetation back at least 18 inches from the home's foundation to create a dry, inhospitable barrier zone.


Scenario 2: Diatomaceous earth was applied, but the spider crickets are walking across it unaffected.



  • Root Cause: The dust layer was applied too heavily, or high basement humidity has caused the powder to clump together. When dust is piled up, crickets will walk around it or jump over it rather than walking through it.
  • Actionable Fix: Vacuum up the heavy piles of dust. Ensure your dehumidifier has successfully pulled the room’s humidity below 50%. Reapply the diatomaceous earth using a bellows duster, shaking the container to create a fine, foggy layer that is barely visible to the naked eye. The crickets must easily walk through it to pick up the microscopic particles.


Scenario 3: The crickets are bypassing or jumping over placed glue traps.



  • Root Cause: The traps are placed too far from the wall-floor junctions, or they are placed in open areas where the crickets do not naturally travel. Alternatively, the traps are too small to catch large-bodied, leaping adults.
  • Actionable Fix: Re-evaluate and reposition all traps. Ensure the long edges of the glue boards are pressed flush against the baseboards or foundation walls. Use wider, rat-sized glue boards (approx. 10x5 inches) rather than small insect traps. This increases the surface area, making it impossible for a jumping cricket to leap over the trap without landing on the adhesive.

Frequently Asked Questions



Why do I have spider crickets in my basement?

Spider crickets invade basements because these areas replicate their natural habitat of dark, damp caves and forest floors. They are drawn to spaces with high relative humidity (above 60%) and abundant organic matter like cardboard, mold, or decaying debris, which serves as their food source.



Do spider crickets bite humans or pets?

Spider crickets do not possess fangs or venom glands, meaning they cannot bite or sting humans or pets. However, they have powerful chewing mandibles and can chew on and damage fabrics, wallpaper, and cardboard when searching for food.



What is the fastest way to kill spider crickets?

The fastest way to eliminate an active population of spider crickets is a combined approach of dropping the basement humidity below 50% to dehydrate them, while simultaneously placing 15 to 20 large, high-tack glue boards along the walls to capture them. For immediate contact kills, a direct spray of soapy water or an EPA-approved household insecticide works instantly.



What smell do spider crickets hate?

Spider crickets are repelled by strong, concentrated scents of peppermint oil, lavender oil, and cedarwood oil. Spraying a mixture of 15 drops of pure essential oil per cup of water around known entry points can discourage them from entering, though this should be used alongside structural sealing and moisture control for long-term results.



Do spider crickets signify a bigger pest problem?

Yes, a large population of spider crickets often indicates that your basement has structural entry points and high moisture levels, which can attract other moisture-loving pests like centipedes, millipedes, and termites. Additionally, spider crickets serve as a food source for larger predators, potentially drawing spiders and mice into your home.

Secure Your Substructure Against Invasive Pests

Protecting your basement from spider crickets requires a systematic approach of sealing structural gaps and lowering the relative humidity inside. By taking these preventive measures, you can safeguard your home's foundation and create a dry, pest-free living space. If you are dealing with a persistent infestation or have concerns about moisture in your foundation, consider consulting a certified waterproofing or pest control specialist to secure your property.


Dealing with Spider Crickets: How to Keep Your Basements and Crawl ...

Dealing with Spider Crickets: How to Keep Your Basements and Crawl ...

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